Buenos Aires (BsAs) Restaurants:
Over the two and half months I lived in Buenos Aires I was able to try all 9 of the restaurants listed on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list and 26 of the 38 restaurants on Eater’s Buenos Aires list, plus a lot of places non-conventional research found. The following list are my favorites and ones I would highly recommend. I split them into two sections, one focused on the Parrilla, and the other, which is to say all other restaurants lumped into one category, simply, the non-parrillas—which sometimes still have a parrilla component to them. Yep, its hard to completely escape it, not that you would want to.
A disclaimer on the restaurants noted below, for the Parrilla section, I included comments on my favorites of the group. Don Julio and La Carniceria were my standout favorites, but I am listing all the Parrillas I went to that are worth trying out later in this paragraph. I made comments on the ones I would prioritize going to first in case your time there is limited. Don Julio, La Carniceria, El Pobre Louis, La Brigada, Proper, Elena,
La Cabrera, and Nuestro Secreto. For more on parrillas, check out Parrilla: The Argentinian Opus.
As for the non-parrilla options, I noted some of my favorites that I found while there. Buenos Aires has a diverse culinary scene and if you are going to be there for an extended period of time and are longing for some food evocative of other places, there are several on this list that you should be very happy with.
Top Parrillas in Buenos Aires
Don Julio – Guatemala 4699, Palermo
My favorite in BsAs. I would eat there, and almost did, once a week—I logged in seven visits. It is one of the definitive Parrillas in Argentina. It was also #55 in the World’s 100 Best Restaurants and #13 on the Latin America 50 Best Restaurants. Exceptional wine list, amazing steaks perfectly cooked every time. The grilled provolone and empanada de carne are some of the best versions in town. Start with sweetbreads and, or, lamb sausage. The Entrecote and Lomo - Rib Eye and Tenderloin, are the standouts—get both. Make sure to order steaks Jugoso, which is the name for their temp around the high end of rare to the low end of medium rare. The Rojo chimichurri here is outstanding as are the french fries. Ask for the picante chimichurri too; they don't bring it out, but if you ask for it, they will. It isn’t spicy by non-Argentinian standards. Reservations are a great idea and can be made on their website. They only take reservations for the first seating, but you can go and wait for a table there. The bonus to that is that they normally offer you champagne and empanadas while you wait.
La Carniceria – Thames 2317, Palermo
My second favorite Parrilla; more of a modern take on a Parrilla. The massive steaks cooked in the open parrilla behind the bar seems to heat the entire place in the winter. The side dishes are a bit more inventive than a lot of the more traditional parrillas. Sweetbreads are also awesome, and massive, here. It is a very small restaurant and is usually books up quickly, so reservations are essential. They also own Chori, with high end Choripan options, and Nino Gordo a take on an Asian inspired parrilla.
Nuestra Parrilla – Bolívar 950, CABA
This is a tiny counter service style place with a few seats in San Telmo. It is not fancy, but well worth a visit. It is built into the side of the old San Telmo market. It has the best Choripan in the city; ridiculously cheap. I slather it with red and green chimichurri (it’s on the counter) and then load a little more green on each bite. Go on Sunday to check out the San Telmo market. Don't miss this one but do be careful in the area. It is a touristy spot and there can be pickpockets around, so be aware of your surroundings. The staff couldn’t be nicer and you will find yourself wanting to go back again and again. For more on Choripan, check out: Choripan: When a Hot Dog Grows Up
Non-Parrillas
Roux – Peña 2300, CABA
If you had to pick a place to have a long leisurely lunch, this is the one. If the weather is bad or you just don’t feel like venturing out one day, your time will be will spent here. Roux will provide excellent service while you have a lively conversation over several courses. They have an excellent wine selection and some great by the glass options. I spent four hours having lunch there multiple times; the service perfect each time. We weren’t in a hurry, and it is the kind of place you are not in a hurry to leave. The food is excellent; llama carpaccio and suckling pig are the must haves. I had some of the best service of anywhere in South America on multiple visits there. In fact, one of the female servers is one of the best servers I've run across in all my travels, and definitely the best in South America.
Aramburu – Salta 1050, CABA
If you are looking for excellent food with creative approaches to a tasting menu coupled with breathtaking presentations, this is the place to go. The service is phenomenal. It is a tasting menu only restaurant. Chef Aramburu worked at Trotter's in Chicago early in his career and his dedication to excellence is very evident. They have been in Latin America 50 Best Restaurants for several years. One note, when you first get there, it almost looks like the restaurant is closed as there is little light that is visible from the outside, fear not, once inside, you will realize what a bustling venue it is.
Tegui – Costa Rica 5852, Palermo Soho
Also a tasting menu format, for the quality of service and food, you could be anywhere in the world, but the distinctive Argentinian approach is evident in the ingredients and menu. Chef Tegui’s eponymous restaurant is stunning. They were the only restaurant in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017 in Argentina and remained on the World’s 100 Best Restaurants in 2018.
Chori – Thames 1653 – Palermo Soho
Excellent, modern take on Choripan. They have several options in the same vein as Choripan including a lamb sausage, Morcipan (blood sausage), and a smoked pork sausage. The bread is as good as you will find in Argentina and the sauces are excellent. If you are craving potato salad, look no further than here. This is a counter service style restaurant where you order and then grab a seat, don’t forget to order one of their excellent Gin and Tonics.
La Alacena – Gascón 1401, CABA
This is my favorite Italian place (there are lots of them in BsAs; they are big on pasta and pizza) and is worth the visit. This is also a great spot to spend several hours over multiple courses, but you could also have a quick lunch; whatever you have time for, you will be happy you went. They also have a bakery/take away place next door with amazing bread and tarts. It is low key with attentive service. The house made pasta is executed well and if you are lucky, they will have their ragu on the menu—excellent and decadent. Sadly, they are only open for breakfast and lunch.
Al Árabe – El Salvador 4999, Palermo Soho
If you have a craving for shawarma, the only place to go is Al Árabe. The parrilla mixta is more food than you should eat, but somehow you will find a way to finish it. If you palate is fatigued from non-stop beef, stop by here for a great lunch or dinner of, well, beef, but with chicken and lamb too. The salsa picante is the reason to go. The sauce is one of the best things I had in Buenos Aires outside a traditional parrilla. I only discovered it towards the end of my time there, but made up for it by back to back visits several days in a row, several weeks in a row.
Mishiguene – Lafinur 3368, Palermo
They describe their food as Jewish "immigrant food;" albeit a very inspired take with some molecular gastronomy thrown in. The dining room is about as relaxing as you well find. The attention to detail is excellent, as you would imagine for a restaurant on Latin America 50 Best Restaurants List. The descriptor of “immigrant food” might mislead you into thinking this is simple comfort food, it is far form that. The pastrami sums it up. They cook the it in the sous vide method for a long period of the time and the result will will blow your mind.
Sarkis – Thames 1101, Palermo
If you want really good Armenian food, this is the place to go. Expect long lines and long waits as this popular restaurant as it is always packed. Lunch can be easier to get in than dinner. On multiple visits, everything I had was excellent and they had some of the best tabouli I've had. All of the salads and grilled meats were exceptional as is the chicken salad. Don’t leave without having the Copa Sarkis. This elegant dessert has something for everyone including a lot of alcohol. It isn’t low calorie, but you will be glad you tried it.
Niño Gordo – Thames 1810, Palermo Soho
From the same people as La Carniceria and Chori, this is an Asian inspired take on the Argentinian parrilla. The counter seated near the parrilla lets you see the show up close. The Asian influence is a nice change of flavors if you are getting a little tired of the traditional steakhouse, but still want to enjoy some great Argentinian beef with a twist try this out. All of the food here is excellent and it is a fun environment. There isn’t a sign out front other the a few neon red lines above the door. The façade of the restaurant is covered in images of the Niño Gordo, or Fat Boy